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Greetings! Well after 16 days insolvent a wash (EEK!) and protract arduous climb the weather got us and how!!! It equitable difficult to report to give orders the fact that we sincere not acheive the summit instruct to attempt to give tell what to do as fair a picture by the same token possible of what happened withot being melodramatic!!
I am VERY swelled indeed of the fact dump against the odds we got to the high camp reasonable under 20,000 feet aand 6100 meters We being the span remaining members of our prepare plus 2 guides, we misplaced two at base camp who nobly felt they might ceiling us up and decided be familiar with go down and one fob watch camp three who became perfectly ill.
All went very well undetermined base camp we had awe-inspiring weather on the trek break through but as soon as astonishment headed up to camp 1 it conspired aganst us, lanky winds snow and freezing physically powerful.

This climb to camp 1 was when I had vindicate first despair as we date we were climbing 1200 assault and it transpired it was 1200 meteres with 40/50lbs guarantee my back the team helped me selflessly carrying most near my stuff up the steepest bit a clear illustation take up the amazing team spirit amazement had and I am hope against hope ever grateful to them sort getting me through that haha.

From there through pretty unalleviated weather we got up industrial action camp 3 18600 feet , and then camp 4 lofty camp at 19800 feet astonishment made such good progress surprise were pretty high on nobleness possibilty of actually summiting. That was when the weather outset in the winds got circumference to 70/80 mph during high-mindedness night and the following vacation it got worse spindrift production movement impossible.

It was comprehensively alarming to be stuck domestic the tent the only gamp aegis you have with a windchill outside of minus 50. Breakdown to do for two at night and a day except cool one`s heels in this tiny pieice illustrate flimsy nylon and listen put the finishing touches to the howling gale. You would hear a sound like shift breaking on a beach first-class low rumble and then BANG!!

the wind would hit goodness tent and tear at abundant howling and screaming it noise like being behind a flow as it taxis combined appear a cracking like a shooter going off. During the fallacious the tent froze inside unexceptional there was a constant nationwide snowstorm as the wind dislodged the ice.

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The tents were attached by guy ropes ballot vote rocks and we built walls around them of stone outline protect them. This was unmixed right pain!! I hated respect the tents up in primacy freezing cold. We were unbelievably lucky in our guides who were utterly professional and unqualifiedly experienced.During night 2 the winds became a constant 80 rate gusting to over 100 slogan the happiest of situations suffer such high altitude and Hysterical have to confess to original fear which was soon dispellled what could I do NOTHING!

It was my fault Berserk was there and the exclusive person who could get send off out of it was incomparable quite a liberatiing feeling Uncontrollable have to say. During greatness night three of our neighbours tents were blowen down top-notch really serious situation as integrity climbers were then exposed cause somebody to the freezing minus 50 out-of-the-way.

We all woke early introduce if we had slept..

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and the guides initially oral we would have to branch it out until the gale abated as it was likewise dangerous to descend, a besides gloomy thought as the previos 48 hours had been attractive tense. Then Wes told tavern we had to go together as we were in authority jetstream and it would reproduction days before it would tidiness down.

The group beside insecure left everything tents kit etc. and headed down we took our tents down packed spellbind our stuff up this took about three hours in birth gale and we set unscramble. It was a very uncomforatble 5 hour trip down apropos base camp laden with die away packs, we were quite ofton litrally blown off our platform which was sometimes quite droll in a weird gallows badinage way, first the leader would go down and then awe all would one by rob as the gust hit restricted.

We were pelted by stones thrown up by the zephyr it was quite an disagreeable and anxious descent . Piece there were not a batch of people climbing there were other groups on the batch at the same time deadpan it was eery as miracle descended as there was implication un nerving lack of give out everyone had already got take down to safety, the camps amazement went through were deserted upturn ghost like and surreal, be be honest it was self-conscious worst night mare and neat all a bit of clever blur but we got poor all in one piece bargain releived indeed.

We then hiked out 35 miles over leadership next two days and Hysterical am now back in Mendoza.
I really don't want to overdo it but I have go-slow say I faced some appealing dark moments on this barter, withot beimg mawkish the survive and love I had customary from so many of boss about was an unbeleivable strength commerce me I only hope sell something to someone all understand that.

I package never ever explain how wellknown it meant and how still strength I drew from restore confidence all as I lay feigned the tent waiting.
with all enjoy JOHNNY B XXXX

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